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Electrical
Requirements:
All ozonators
are supplied with power cords and are hooked to the equipment
control box via a supplied cord end, or they are hard wired
directly into the control box. Look on the side of your control
box where everything plugs in, if you see an empty slot that
will except a (3) prong plug then most likely this is the receptacle
for the ozonator. Please look at the selection of cord
ends to select the proper pattern.
Plumbing
Requirements:
If your
spa is 'ozone ready' then one of two things are apparent:
-
You
have located and identified a clear tube (approximately
3/8") that is just hanging in the equipment area with
either a knot or plug at the end that is not attached to
anything.
- You have
located and identified a section of 3/4" ID flex hose
spliced into a rigid water line, which leads to a special
ozone jet in the spa shell. Click
for these instructions
(1)
If this is the case then the first thing you will want to do
is remove the plug/knot at the end of the tube, then start the
pump on the low speed filter/heat cycle. Once this is done,
you'll want take the end of the tube and check for a slight
"suction" or "draw". This can be achieved
a couple of ways; you can either put it on your tongue and check
for suction, or you can find something very small and light
to see if it gets sucked into the tube. If you are getting the
suction mentioned above, then the next step is to identify the
cord
end that matches the receptacle on your control box, then
purchase the ozonator that matches
the cord end you chose. Spa Parts Ltd. recommends using a DELZONE
unit. If the tube is not drawing a suction, then please follow
the instructions below. (In
the yellow box)
Once you
receive the ozonator, find a suitable mounting location that
will keep it up and out of any water. The next step is VERY
IMPORTANT, failure to do so will jeopardize the new ozonator
and void the warranty. You will want to create a "loop"
(Hartford Loop) in the tubing and install it as high as possible
under the spa to keep water from backing up into the ozonator
as shown below.
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Water should
never be allowed to enter the ozonator! If the existing tubing
in your spa is not long enough to create this loop you can purchase
a coupling, from any home center to join your tubing to the
tubing that comes with ozonator. An in-line check valve is also
included in every ozone kit and should be used. Please install
it per the instructions, making sure that it is installed in
a manner the will allow the ozone to be "drawn" through
the tube into the spa. You can now plug the cord into it's power
source, depending on the manufacturer of the ozonator you should
have an indication of weather it is working or not by either
a site glass or a "blue glow" coming from the manifold.
It is best to check this at night. Now turn on the filter/heater
cycle and take a look in the spa, there should be one jet that
is spitting small bubbles. It is these bubbles that the ozone
uses as a vehicle to enter the spa water.
NOTE:
If you are not getting the suction required or if water
is running out of the tube, then you will need to follow
the instructions "My spa
is not ozone ready I want to install one". The
reason is that the ozone plumbing was not installed correctly
at the manufacturer.
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(2) If
you have located the flexible tube mentioned, then your next
step is to order the in-line injector P/N
684K-MAZZEI and
ozonator, Spa
Parts Ltd. recommends using a DELZONE
unit. Make
sure you order the proper ozonator with the correct cord
end that will match the receptacle on your control box.
Once you receive the injector, you will simply cut out a piece
of the flex tube in order to install the injector. (See below)
Make sure to install the injector with
the arrow pointing in the same direction that the water is flowing.
Before
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After
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When Installing
the ozonator, find a suitable mounting location that will keep
it up and out of any water. Connect the supplied tubing from
the injector barb to the ozonator barb. The next step is VERY
IMPORTANT, failure to do so will jeopardize the new ozonator
and void the warranty. You will want to create a "loop"
(Hartford Loop) in the tubing and install it as high as possible
under the spa to keep water from backing up into the ozonator
as shown in (Figure 1) above. Water should never be allowed
to enter the ozonator. An in-line check valve is also included
in every ozone kit and should be used. Please install it per
the supplied instructions, making sure that it is installed
in a manner the will allow the ozone to be "drawn"
through the tube into the spa. You can now plug the cord into
it's power source, depending on the manufacturer of the ozonator
you should have an indication of weather it is working or not
by either a site glass or a "blue glow" coming from
the manifold. It is best to check this at night. Now turn on
the filter/heater cycle and take a look in the spa, there should
be one jet that is spitting small bubbles. It is these bubbles
that the ozone uses as a vehicle to enter the spa water.
| IMPORTANT:
When selecting an ozonator please be sure to check the voltage
from where the ozonator will be receiving it's power. Do
not assume that because 220 volts is supplying the equipment
that the ozonator operates at 220 volts.
Over-voltage or under voltage will void the warranty! |
|
My
spa is not ozone ready-- I want to install one.
|
Electrical
Requirements:
All ozonators
are supplied with power cords and are hooked to the equipment
control box via a supplied cord end, or they are hard wired
directly into the control box. Look on the side of your control
box where everything plugs in, if you see an empty slot that
will except a (3) prong plug then most likely this is the receptacle
for the ozonator. Please look at the selection of cord
ends to select the proper pattern. If you do not see a receptacle
then you will need to hard wire the ozonator cord into the control
box. The electrical cord should be wired to the pump relay or
switch so that the ozonator comes on only when the pump is on;
for 2-speed pumps, the ozonator should be wired to the low-speed
pump relay (NOTE: The ozonator should only operate when
the low speed pump is running).
The
Concept:
This
installation will require taping into the air line via a barbed
fitting (see Figure 2 below). This line is plumbed in series
from jet to jet and eventually ties into an air control (you
may have more then one) that is mounted on top of the spa. While
the jets are running you'll notice that if the air control is
closed it will not allow air to mix with the water coming out
of the jets in the spa. However if you open it, the jets increase
in power due to the fact that air being pulled in from the air
control is now mixing with the water coming out of the jets.
This action is called "Venturi". This installation
is going to use the same concept; except, instead of the "mixing
air" or pulling air from the air control, it will pull
air from the ozonator. Now the air that mixes with the water
will have ozone in it and sanitize your spa.
Plumbing
Requirements:
For
portable spas utilizing the air control
For
in-ground spas-- installing an injector
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My
spa is not ozone ready-- I want to install one.
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If your
spa has more then one air control, you'll want to "tie"
into the one that produces the most air when it is opened. With
the pump running on low speed, turn off both air controls, open
one at a time observing the air mixture that is coming out of
the jets. The air control that allows the most air to mix with
the water coming out of the lowest jet; if possible, is the
one you will want to plumb into.
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- If you
have more than one air Venturi line, select the one with the
best suction, connected to the lowest spa jet if possible
(see plumbing requirements above)
- Cut the
PVC pipe (usually 1") and install a tee, in the side
port of the tee you'll need to install a barbed fitting
(found at any Home Center) that will except the 3/8"
tubing included in the ozone kit. (Fig 2)
- Connect
a 6" piece of tubing to the barbed fitting, at the other
end install the provided check valve. Once this is done, blow
into the check valve, the air should flow freely towards the
tee, if you feel back pressure when doing this, you have the
check valve installed backwards.
- Attach
a 5-6 foot length of flexible tubing to the check valve and
route the hose so that at some point it passes above the water
level of the spa. You may need to tie the hose up to keep
it in place. This will help insure that no water backs up
into the ozonator. (Fig 2).
- Before
attaching it to the ozonator you should test the line to make
sure that it will have an adequate amount of suction to draw
in the ozone from the generator as well as making sure water
does not back up into the line. You'll need to fill the spa
up with water, shut the air control valve off, and start the
low speed pump. You should see bubbles mixing with one or
more jets. Placing your thumb over the tube should make them
disappear. If this is the case, then you have successfully
installed the plumbing.
- Connect
the final end of tubing to the ozonator barb and plug in the
ozonator
- Systems
are either 120 or 220 VAC, 50/60 HZ. For hard wire installation
wire ozone generator systems to the low speed side of the
circulation pump switch or timer. Follow your local electrical
code for grounding and installation procedures for spa equipment.
- FINAL
NOTE: The mentioned tee can be installed vertically (as shown)
or horizontally anywhere in the air control line. However,
the closer to a jet you can get the better.
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My
spa is not ozone ready-- I want to install one.
|
- Systems
are either 120 or 220 VAC, 50/60 HZ. Wire ozone generator
systems to the low speed side of the circulation pump switch
or timer. Follow your local electrical code for grounding
and installation procedures for spa equipment.
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- You will
need to purchase an ozone injector
for this installation. You'll also need to determine weather
the line you are installing the injector in is 1.5" or
2". Use P/N OZINJ1
or OZINJ2.
- The injector
is installed after the filter/heater make sure that
the "flow" arrow is pointing towards the spa.
- Connect
a 6" piece of tubing to the barbed fitting, at the other
end install the provided check valve. Once this is done, blow
into the check valve, the air should flow freely towards the
injector, if you feel back pressure when doing this, you have
it check valve installed backwards.
- Once this is done push the provided tubing onto the injector
barb. Before
attaching it to the ozonator you should test the line to make
sure that it will have an adequate amount of suction to draw
in the ozone from the generator as well as making sure water
does not back up into the line. You'll need to fill the spa
up with water, and start the low speed pump. Once this is
done you should see bubbles mixing with one or more jets.
Placing your thumb over the tube should make them disappear.
If this is the case, then you have successfully installed
the plumbing.
- Connect
the final end of tubing to the ozonator barb and plug in the
ozonator
| IMPORTANT:
When selecting an ozonator please be sure to check the voltage
from where the ozonator will be receiving it's power. Do
not assume that because 220 volts is supplying the equipment
that the ozonator operates at 220 volts.
Over-voltage or under voltage will void the warranty! |
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Installing
a self contained ozonator-(no plumbing required
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Electrical
Requirements:
- Ozone
can be delivered continuously, up to 24 hours per day, when
wired independently of the spa pump by simply plugging it
in into a regular (nema) receptacle. Or you can wire to the
low side pump circuit in the control box, for controlled operation.
Installation
Requirements:
The self
contained ozone generator can be mounted anywhere in the equipment
area, or it can be mounted to an outside wall. If you are mounting
it in the equipment area, make sure the check valve is installed
and a "Hartford Loop" (Fig 1) is installed to prevent
water from backing up into the ozonator. If the unit is going
to be mounted on an outside wall, place the unit above water
level, this will prevent water from siphoning into the ozonator.
- Connect
a 6" piece of tubing to the barbed fitting, at the other
end install the provided check valve. Once this is done, blow
into the check valve, the air should flow freely towards the
tee, if you feel back pressure when doing this, you have the
check valve installed backwards.
- Attach
a 5-6 foot length of flexible tubing to the check valve and
route the hose so that at some point it passes above the water
level of the spa. You may need to tie the hose up to keep
it in place. This will help insure that no water backs up
into the ozonator. (Fig
1)
- For temporary
or simple installation, slide the ozonator tubing onto the
barbed wall fitting and let it hang over the edge into the
spa water.
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Ozone
Troubleshooting Guide
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When your
spa is in it's "on" cycle a suction of air is being
pulled through the tubing from the ozonator to the return line.
As the air passes by the UV bulb or chip, the oxygen in the
air is converted to ozone. This ozonated air is introduced to
the water via an action known as "Venturi". When your
spa is in it's "off" cycle water tends to flow back
in the tubing towards the ozonator. Therefore, installing the
provided check valve and a "Hartford Loop" (see illustrations
above) will help prevent this from happening.
Ozone is
introduced into the water via the low speed (filter) mode. It
is recommended that it runs on a 24 hour cycle, although, it
can operate on the timer mode as well. You may have to keep
a chlorine or bromine reserve when operating in this mode. The
24 hour cycle mode will not only cut back your chlorine or bromine
use, but may replace it all together. It is recommended you
use a Non-Chlorine
Shock or a Mineral Cartridge such as Nature2
(not bromine compatible) or The
Frog (bromine compatible).
These three combined will keep your water sanitized and crystal
clear.
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Up
to 250
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4-6
hours
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251-500
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8-10
hours
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Over
500
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12-18
hours
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| Problem |
Corrective
Action |
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No blue light glowing
from ozone unit.
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Cord
or power not connected
Breaker or GFCI tripped -Make sure water has not flooded
ozonator
Defective bulb, transformer or chip REPLACE
OZONATOR |
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Flickering blue
light
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Incorrect
voltage supply to ozonator -Confirm voltage at power
supply. |
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No bubbles from
ozone jet
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Air control leaks
- Open or leaking
air control valve. Check air control cap O-ring,
replace if necessary -Relates to air control (Venturi)
installations only.
No
Suction from tube connected to the ozonator
- Check
for dirty filter (remove and run spa to see if
it makes any difference)
- Make
sure all adjustable jets are open completely
- Check
for debris in jets
- Check
ozone supply check valve (make sure it is installed
correctly)
- Make
sure tubing is not pinched
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Cloudy water
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Unit operation time
too short (minimum of 6 hours is recommended)
Water chemistry out of balance
- Adjust Alkalinity
between 80 -150 PPM
- Adjust pH between
7.2 - 7.6
- Adjust Calcium Hardness
between 100 - 250 PPM (acrylic finishes)
Clean or replace filter
Shock
the water with a non-chlorine
shock and add a Mineral Purifier Nature
2 (not bromine compatible) or The
Frog (bromine compatible).
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| IMPORTANT:
When selecting an ozonator please be sure to check the voltage
from where the ozonator will be receiving it's power. Do
not assume that because 220 volts is supplying the equipment
that the ozonator operates at 220 volts.
Over-voltage or under voltage will void the warranty! |
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